Cook pancetta, remove. Cook sofrito, remove. Cook veal, remove. Season lightly with salt and pepper as you go.
3. Deglaze with Wine
Pour in the white wine and stir, scraping any browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Simmer for about 5 minutes until the alcohol evaporates and the wine reduces slightly.
4. Add Tomatoes and Start Slow Cooking
Add the hand-crushed tomatoes and stir in the tomato paste, if using. Lower the heat to a gentle simmer and cook uncovered for 2–3 hours, stirring occasionally. Add small amounts of beef broth as needed to keep the sauce from drying out.
5. Incorporate the Milk
After about 1.5 hours of cooking, gradually add the milk in batches, stirring after each addition. The milk balances the acidity of the tomatoes and gives the ragù a silky finish. Add a pinch of nutmeg at this point if desired.
6. Final Adjustments
After 2.5 to 3 hours, the ragù should be thick, rich, and deeply flavored. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and black pepper to finish.